Luang Prabang

Traveling to Luang Prabang is often done by taking a two day ride on the slow boat. Large traditional boats are docked outside of Huax Xai ready for a journey most days. After having some not so fun bus rides we were ready to splurge on the nicer boats that have fewer people and include food and a few short tours. Sadly our travel times did not match theirs so off on the local boat it was. We had read about a faster way down on a speed boat, but as the description said, "deaths are not uncommon," we felt slow and steady was the way to go.

 

The first day we went down to the dock and grabbed our seats early. The boat was large and although it was full we had a decent amount of space. I spent most of the six hour ride sleeping or listening to a pod cast. Not very eventful, but it was fine. The view was gorgeous and we saw many tiny villlages set along the river where we occasionally made stops to drop off supplies. That night we stopped in Peking about half way to our destination.

On the second day we were lucky to get to the boat early. This new boat was very small compared to our first, yet just as many people if not more were boarding. This was a much less comfortable ride and people were sent to the back where they sat on the floor or laid down to try to sleep. After what felt like days sitting on the old bus seats we finally arrived! 

 

Our hotel was in a great location just steps away from the main road with shops, food and a night market. And our room was filled with purple which made Rebecca very happy. 

Laos is a laid back country with people who feel that if it doesn't make you happy why do it. This is a nice way to spend your life, unless you're looking for a tuk tuk. Our first full day in Luang Prabang we wanted to visit the waterfalls. We found a driver to take us on the forty-five minute drive and he stayed until we were done. This felt so different from the US that we were a bit hesitant if he would still be there waiting when we were done. But for him this meant he could sit back, relax and nap. Win win. 

The waterfalls were stunning and went on and on. We had the place almost to ourselves since we didn't take the official tour. People in Laos don't start early. This was perfect and made for better pictures. At the end there is a large fall that you can hike up behind. Hoping for a new view of the water we trudged on up. Sadly you can't even see the water from the top, but it was a good view nonetheless. We hiked back down and got ready to swim. The water was pretty cold but very refreshing. At first I was really enjoying my time. But then the biting fish came. Now I know I got a fish pedicure a few weeks ago, but these guys were larger and they did not nibble delicately on my toes. They chomped into my feet, legs and ankles. No longer feeling refreshed I jumped out to look for a different pool. We swam around a bit more then walked through their bear rescue area. And luckily our driver was there waiting when we were ready to go. 

 

To fully experience each country we now needed a Laos massage. There were plenty around so we decided on a spot with massages and a much needed pedicure. I will say this one was a bit more creepy than where we had been previously. The upstairs was dark and slightly shabby with about seven mattresses spread across the room. An old man snored next to us obviously feeling relaxed. The massage was good and slightly different than Thailand. After, they gave us a hot tea and a cold towel for the final relaxing step. 

Our evening was filled with bardering for good prices on souvenirs. Let's just hope my bag will close at the end of this. The markets have so many bright colors and shiny objects I just can't help but buy more! 

 

On our last day we walked through the city and visited a temple up the hill. The view was amazing and probably worth all of the stairs. 

 

Our time here was pretty short, but with so many places to see it was time for a new country. I hope to take some of the Laos way of life back home with me. If I don't want to do it, maybe I just won't! 

 

The Gibbon Sound

When researching for this trip I told Rebecca I really wanted to stay in a treehouse. Since she's such a great researcher and planner she came across the perfect one. The Gibbon Experience in Laos. This combines not only the opportunity to sleep among the trees, but also thrilling ziplining and chances to find the mysterious gibbons. After reading reviews we grabbed our spot and were ready to go. 

The town you start in is a small town in Laos, Huay Xai, that is a pit stop for many travelers. There are two big attractions here, the gibbons and the boat to Luang Prabang. As we walked through town the night before the tourists stood out and we played a game of Gibbons or Boat? We even got a few right. 

The morning of I was a bit nervous. Heights are not exactly my friend, but I was determined to do this. I've been ziplining before, but never at these heights nor staying in a treehouse fifty meters up. We sat in the office awaiting all of the travelers and trying to see who would be in our group. They showed us a safety video and explained how the organization is a non profit trying to protect the jungle and the animals living within it. The narrator gave tips and said we should all come back as we left, nearly... Then it was off to the trucks for a few hours to get our way into the park. The final stretch was a nice bumpy dirt road that took us to a secluded village where the hiking begins. We started as a group of twelve, most all younger than Rebecca and I. 

The hike started out very easy but quickly turned to endless uphill steps. We made it to one stop and had the added benefit of now wearing our harnesses.  At this point they split us into two groups since the treehouses aren't made for twelve. Four boys went out ahead which left seven girls and one unlucky boy who had to deal with all of us. 

 

Finally it was time for the first zip. One of our guides, Thangchanh, showed us again how to safely cross as our other guide, Mor, clipped on and showed how not to do it! Off he sailed upside down screaming as he went. I sucked it up, clipped in and jumped. My first thought was holy crap! But the view and breeze were perfect and eased my fears. I made it to the end and breathed a sigh of relief. After this I was eager to get to the next line. We played for a bit then headed to our treehouse where we zipped right inside and had our new home for a few days. It was amazing. The door you enter leads to a bathroom complete with squat toilet and a shower with the most remarkable view ever. Upstairs was a large area circling the tree that had our mattresses, mosquito nets, sink, table and chairs. And the top floor was a small room with an extra mattress and another wonderful view. The guides left us there and said they'd be back to plan later. 

 

 

That night our meal was zipped in for us and we all sat around our table and got to know each other. Our group was made up of Americans, Canadians and Belgians. A great mix of people who love to travel. It was great to unplug and play some Uno and cards. The Belgians and Rebecca and I shared our traditional rules  and had some fun. We went to sleep with the sounds of the jungle around us as we were hidden in our tent like nets exhausted from the first day. 

 

In the early hours of the morning I woke to the sound of the gibbons! Their siren like howls echoed through the trees and I jumped up to try to see them. Sadly the fog was thick so all we got was their morning song. Still a worth while experience. The next sound we heard was the squealing of the zip line as our breakfast was ready! Pretty good system. 

Our day was filled with hiking and zipping through the trees. We visited all of the treehouses (ours was my favorite) and searched for wildlife. At this point I made some friends. Leeches! Luckily they are smaller than I expected, but this was also a downside as they crawled in from my shoelace holes and attached themselves to me. The crazy part is you can't even feel it! While wandering through a treehouse I noticed my knee was really wet and didn't remember touching anything. I pulled up my pant leg to see my knee covered in blood. Then looking down my socks were too! I had two holes from the little blood suckers that just would not stop bleeding. Our guide was great and sat me down and wouldn't let me move till the bleeding stopped. After this we zipped on. More than once I ripped my shoe off as I witnessed the end of a tail sneaking in for more. Apparently my blood is awesome. Poor Rebecca even pulled one out of my shoe as I cursed the little devils. 

 

On the way back to our treehouse for lunch we got in a few more zip lines. By this time the guides just told us where to go and we were in charge of clipping on and checking our gear. A little nerve racking yes, but we were now comfortable and other than a few scary starts where you just have to jump and hope it holds we were all comfortable and ready. Our largest goal was making it to the end without needing to "monkey" in. One stop proved to be harder than others as most of us had to be recused by bamboo pole. All in all I was fairly successful! Rebecca on the other hand...

 

We got to our treehouse and I took off my filthy muddy shoes. Guess who came with me. Yep, more leeches! A new little puncture on my foot and more blood on my socks. Apparently our well thought out plan of long pants and tall socks backfired. After this I changed socks and sprayed my feet with mosquito repellent for a few minutes. 

The other four guys from our group were visiting our treehouse and enjoying a good nap. A long thrilling morning called for a bit of a break so we all laid around until Mor and Thangchanh came back. Then off we went again! 

At our next multi level treehouse we sat down to peer into the trees. Clearly our guides had a great sense for the animals as the tiniest movement alerted their presence. Thangchanh grabbed my camera and zoomed in on a langur monkey in the distance. Three of us sat and searched and had no idea how he could see them. We spent quite a bit of time staring and finally saw the trees rustle with our new found friends. I saw two babies playing with their families and my favorite GQ model who seemed to know I was photographing him. His "Blue Steel" was amazing! We had to tear ourselves away from the show to head back before dark. 

 

 

That night our guides stayed for a while and played some stick riddles with us. We learned more about the jungle and the area surrounding. Thangchanh even told us about the only time he saw a tiger as a boy. He used to be a teacher so listening to his stories of school life were fascinating as well. 

I finally had time to get cleaned up after this crazy day and went down to our now dark shower. It was a bit creepy, but also very cool as the fireflies flew around putting on a show. Well guess what I found. Yep, another leech puncture! This one made it pretty far without my knowledge. Gross!!! 

After this all of our treehouse mates played the most vicious game of spoons I've ever been in. I believe I still have the marks on my hand after a full on Belgian brawl. Thanks Veelna! We entertained the jungle creatures with a bit of Moana and knew our mix of jungle sounds and songs would be a hit. Then we turned out all the lights and sat with our legs dangling from the treehouse to watch the fireflies and enjoy the stars. Just an amazing day! 

On our final day we had a tough muddy trek ahead of us. Luckily we were able to fly across the jungle a few more times marveling at our height and speed. Each time was as incredible as the first. The hike however was not. The rain the day before made going down awful. I slipped multiple times and had to inch forward slowly to not end up on my bum. Thank goodness we made it back the same as we were when we left, nearly...

The ride back proved to be an adventure as well on the now slick muddy roads. We all bounced around as our NASCAR driver flew up hills trying to keep momentum. I will say our truck had it easier as the rains started again and we at least had flaps to protect us. We may have laughed a bit watching the others try to hide from the vicious downpour, getting soaked to the bone. Memories worth saving. 

 

This was by far one of my favorite adventures during our trip. As most of us sat down together at a bar in town I was thrilled to have met such great people and enjoyed the experience so fully. And now I can't wait for our new band, The Gibbon Sound!